A 5th-century royal palace complex built on the sheer face of a 200-metre volcanic rock, with ancient hydraulic water gardens at its base, 1,500-year-old frescoes painted into the cliff face, and a summit view across the flat forest plain that prepares no visitor adequately. The water gardens alone represent a feat of ancient engineering that remains impressive by any modern standard. Dawn access, before the heat and the crowds arrive, is when Sigiriya rewards most completely.