One of the ancient world’s great capitals for over a millennium, Anuradhapura is home to the sacred Sri Maha Bodhi tree grown from a cutting of the original Bodhi tree in 288 BCE, the oldest human-planted tree on earth with a continuous historical record. Three of the ancient world’s largest brick structures rise from the surrounding landscape amid a network of ancient irrigation tanks that fed a civilisation of millions. Best explored by bicycle at dawn, when the site belongs almost entirely to the pilgrims and the birds.