Two UNESCO World Heritage Sites within 20 kilometres of each other, each entirely different in character. Sigiriya at dawn for the sunrise climb of the 5th-century rock palace, when the temperature is manageable and the summit view belongs almost entirely to the traveller. Dambulla in the afternoon for the painted cave chambers, when the quality of light inside the five interconnected rooms is at its most atmospheric and the density of 22 centuries of Buddhist art rewards exactly the kind of slow, attentive visit the pacing allows.